Exploring Madeira: Travel Guide

Welcome to Madeira!

For a few years running, my family and I have decided to travel over the Christmas break - seeing it as an opportunity to visit somewhere new. In December 2023 we decided to make Madeira our travel destination for the holidays. I’d heard good things about the island, but also had few expectations, as it was the low season, and in a lot of places, things close down over Christmas - plus I’d heard that the weather could be unpredictable at that time of year. But… we were so pleasantly surprised and had such a memorable 10 days exploring what turned out to be one of our favourite destinations yet!

Introducing Madeira:

Madeira is a little island located in the Atlantic Ocean, and is a part of Portugal. The nature here is truly spectacular - and the whole island has so much to offer. From wild landscapes, amazing hikes, wellness resorts and a rich culture, there is something for everyone.

Here are a few tips and travel ideas from my experience. In this post, I share some of the highlights of my trip, things to do, and places to eat on the island. At the bottom I also share my map with all the spots listed.


Hiking:

If you’re a bit of a hiking enthusiast like me, then Madeira will be a playground. the island offers some of the most incredible trails, thanks to mountainous terrain and the ocean views. Here are some of my favourite hikes:

Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo

This is a more challenging 12km round trip, but the hike rewards you with some seriously cool panoramic views. Make sure to check the weather beforehand as conditions can change rapidly. We attempted to catch the sunrise here twice but only got lucky with the weather on our third attempt - it can be really foggy if you’re not lucky.

Ponta de São Lourenço

This is a coastal walk on the Westernmost tip of Madeira - allowing for some sweet views along the way. An easier hike with less elevation, making it more accessible (but also can get busy). The mix of ocean views and dramatic landscapes makes this hike a favorite.

Caldeiro Verde

You follow the levada (irrigation channel) to a cascading waterfall, walking through scenic tunnels along the way. Make sure to bring a headlamp or flashlight for the tunnels.

25 Fontes

This is also a popular hike as it’s relatively easy and accessible. The trick is to plan to hike in the afternoon for fewer crowds. There’s a cute little cafe you can grab a snack at at the end (they also serve delicious cakes).


Visiting Funchal:

What to do and see in the capital of the island.

Wander the streets
Stroll through the streets of Funchal, stopping for a cup of coffee (and a pastel de nata) along the way. Make sure to visit the Mercado dos Lavradores, a busy local market filled with local produce, flowers, and souvenirs. It’s a good place to soak in the local culture and taste some exotic fruits.

Wine Tasting at Blandy’s
Book onto a tour and tasting session to learn about the history of Madeiran wine and taste some of the best Madeiran wine out there. The building itself is worth checking out, nestled in a courtyard.

Monte
Head up to Monte to soak in the views over Funchal. If you’re up for it, you can make your way back down to Funchal in the traditional wicker toboggans! It’s not cheap, and a slightly gimmicky experience but also a unique thing to do. While you’re up there, visit the beautiful botanical gardens for a bit of greenery and some peace away from the city.

Food & Drink

We went to quite a few different restaurants around the island and enjoyed the food experience everywhere. You can check out the map below for some restaurant/bar/cafe recommendations.

One place I’ll mention in Funchal is Akua Restaurant. If you’re looking for a complete restaurant experience featuring local ingredients and a local philosophy, you’ll enjoy it. It’s a relatively small restaurant, but we celebrated my 31st birthday here. It’s headed up by a renowned Madeiran chef and the menu was centred around local seafood. It did not disappoint.

We also went for afternoon tea at Belmond Reid’s Palace in Funchal. The hotel overlooks the Atlantic Ocean, and is well known for this historic hotel (open since 1891) offers a classic British-style tea with a Madeiran twist.
Enjoy a selection of finely cut finger sandwiches, freshly baked scones with clotted cream and jam, delicate pastries, and a curated list of teas — all served on elegant china. The setting, complete with sweeping ocean views and impeccable service, makes it a timeless indulgence and a must for lovers of slow travel and old-world charm.

Some local foods to try:

  • Bolo do Caco: A round, soft flatbread made from sweet potato, traditionally cooked on a hot stone and served warm with garlic butter. It’s like a premium version of garlic bread and it’s addictive.

  • Espada com Banana: An island specialty comprised of black scabbardfish (deep-sea fish) fried and paired with sweet banana.

  • Bolo de Mel: Madeira’s traditional honey cake made with molasses, nuts, and spices. It keeps for months and gets better with age.

  • Pastel de Nata: Not from Madeira specifically but too good to not mention. Creamy custard tarts with a caramelised top and flaky pastry shell - a Portuguese classic you’ll find in nearly every café in Madeira.

  • Madeiran Wine: A fortified wine that comes in dry, medium-dry, medium-sweet, and sweet varieties. It tastes similar to port - I’d never had it before visiting the island and I’m a fan.

  • Poncha: This is a local drink/cocktail made from distilled sugar cane rum (aguardente), honey, and lemon or orange juice. Traditionally hand-mixed with a wooden stick (mexelote). They drink it everywhere at Christmas time.

  • Coral Beer: The local lager beer brewed in Madeira.

Coastal Activities:

  • Lido Day
    Madeira is famous for its natural lidos, some of which are free and others that charge a small fee for entry. Spend a relaxing day by the sea, swimming in the Atlantic Ocean or soaking up the sun.

  • Surfing
    If you’re looking for some wave action, head to Machico Bay for great surfing conditions. Porto da Cruz is another option.

Scenic Drives

  • Fanal
    Take a drive up to Fanal, a mystical forest home to ancient laurel trees and some friendly cows. It’s often quite misty, which adds to its charm, but if it’s a clear day you’ll get some impressive views of the Northern coastline. Don’t forget your camera, the scenery is pretty atmospheric!

  • Curral das Freiras
    Take a scenic drive to Curral das Freiras for breathtaking mountain views. The drive itself is an experience, showcasing Madeira’s dramatic landscapes.

  • Traditional Casitas
    While in the area, make a quick stop to check out the traditional casitas in Santa Ana.

  • Câmara de Lobos

    This little fishing village is not far from Funchal - in fact from where we stayed in Sao Martinho you can walk there following the long promenade that runs the whole way there. We ran there one day and stopped for a coffee at one of the cafes in the small harbour there, in front of the very colourful, traditional fishing boats. It’s a nice little stop.

Where to Stay

For accommodation, consider staying on the South side of the island, which generally has the best weather, and is sunnier than the Northern coast. Some options:

  • Funchal Centre: Staying centrally allows easy access to attractions and restaurants.

  • Sao Martinho: We enjoyed a great Airbnb here with lovely promenade access to the ocean and access to the lidos.

  • Ponta do Sol: We stayed at Estalagem Ponta do Sol, a lovely hotel with spectacular views, an indoor and outdoor pool, AND sauna.

  • Galomar Hotel: Located in Canico, this hotel features great wellness facilities, a spa, a gym, and a lido for direct sea access.

Madeira Map

This map includes more spots that I didn’t have time to cover in this post - including viewpoints, hikes, activities, restaurants and places worth stopping at. I highly recommend renting a car from the airport to visit as much of the island as possible. There really is so much to see and you can’t go too wrong!

Final Thoughts

After 10 days exploring Madeira, it quickly became one of our favourite islands. I felt it had everything to offer, from adventure, hiking to culture and a laid back culture. I would also recommend visiting over Christmas as the Madeirans love to celebrate it! We went to plenty of Christmas markets, live music concerts and events. Funchal Christmas Market was a definite favourite.

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